Heybridge Basin (Cannibal Island)

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An Outline History

'Heybridge Basin', is a small village which has developed over the years around the entrance to a canal entered via a lock from the East Coast Estuary of the River Blackwater. The nearest village is called 'Heybridge', the canal is the 'Chelmer & Blackwater Navigation'. The 'Basin', is an extended area of water just inside the entrance to the canal where large vessels can be moored and turned, unloaded and serviced.

It's origin began in 1765 with a proposal to make the River Chelmer navigable from Chelmsford's Moulsham Bridge to Maldon Bridge. However due to opposition from Maldon business operators this project was abandoned. In 1793 Parliament passed the act for the making and maintaining of the Chelmer & Blackwater Navigation, bypassing Maldon with the use of a modified section of the River Blackwater and a new canal cut through Heybridge falling in to the Estuary via a lock opposite Northey Island.

(above) part of one of the earliest official land survey maps of Heybridge Basin. It clearly shows an early stage of development with buildings in place or not inplace, this contradicts the claims of several current officialy publicised documents, pamphlets, local websites and books.

Prior to the completion of the canal there was very little development in the area generally known as 'Boro or Barrow Marsh'. A 'Salt Pan' and salt supply business was operated by a Mr Tovee in an area just behind the present Lock House, and another 'Salt Works' was operated from where the Blackwater Sailing Club now stands. The lake in the field of the Sailing Club was originally the main 'salt pan', and the mound nearby was always described as the the heaped spoil from when it was dug. There have been claims of it being a 'Barrow' (burial mound), but as this area was regularly flooded and underwater in earlier times (remnants of the earliest sea defence wall are still visible further back on the other side of Basin Road), it is not logical that in times past it would have been used as a burial area, however this will undoubtedly continue for many years as a point of contended discussion. The burial area giving it's name to 'Barrow Marsh' and 'Barrow Marsh Farm', is on the other side of Goldhanger Road. The two sections of road named 'Boro or Barrow Road' leading from Goldhanger Road through the village as far as the seawall were defined in the 'Enclosures Act' of the 7th December 1815. The first section from Goldhanger Road reached as far as what is now the 'Tinkers Cottage'. It is from this point that the village started and the new road name of 'Basin Road' was assigned, it's changes also defined in the 1815 Act. Later the name 'Boro or Barrow Road' was dropped and the whole length from Goldhanger Road to the seawall by the 'Jolly Sailor' pub took on the same name of 'Basin Road'.

(above) What is believed to be the remains of the original salt pan operated by Mr Tovee can still be seen just to the right of 'Navigation Cottage' at lower right.

(above) a horse on the tow path hauling a barge (or lighter). The horse was later replaced by a large outboard motor mounted on the stern of the barges.

The Basin and canal was completed in 1796 and the first dwelling of the new village was built near the spot later used for the Eel Company building. This cottage was used as the home and office of the first Lock Keeper and Harbour master who collected the tolls and revenue. Navigation from the Basin lock via the canal was finaly linked to the river section to Chelmsford, and opend a year later in 1797. The spoil dug out from the building of the lock was dumped outside, at first being an island linked by a bridge (often referred to as 'Muckers Island'), but later developed with a permanent link to it and now a boatyard, tea rooms and marina. Over the years the Basin has gone through four different periods of main use creating a matching development and growth of it's dwellings and inhabitants. For many years it was almost completeley self contained with it's residents rarely venturing outside other than by water.

(above) barges loaded with coal waiting to be hauled to Chelmsford. Note that the tow path for the horses is only on the South side of the canal for the whole navigation.

The first to make use of the direct link from the sea to Chelmsford were the coal merchants shipping down from the Tyne. They sailed down heavily laden with coal in what were known as 'Collier's', usually 'Brig's. Some unloaded in the Basin on to barges which were then horse-drawn to Chelmsford, but most lay at anchor out in the Blackwater and unloaded on to barges there in 'Colliers Reach'. Coal was unloaded from the ships in to barges by a method known as 'whipping' (three men jumping on a long plank). We know from an earlier map published before the canal was built that this section of the Blackwater was already called 'Colliers Reach'. Colliers could be seen anchored all along the reach for many years before the Canal opened, when the coal was destined for Maldon and the route inland from there. Vessels returning empty had to take on a certain amount of ballast to ensure their continued stability under sail, some used mud from over the Northey shore, but most loaded aboard sand and shingle ballast from the corner area opposite Hillypool Point which could also sometimes be sold on. After years of taking this ballast from the same place a large area developed which became known as 'The Ballast Hole'. A wealthy ship owner called Joseph Going saw the potential of the area from the very begining, and invested heavily in the development of the supply of coal and other goods to Chelmsford via the canal. He built a large warehouse at Heybridge which became known as Going's Wharf. He owned and built barges and other craft at the village as well as buying up property and constructing many buildings throughout the village including the barn now converted to the 'Barn House', and even a beer house (the 'Chelmer Brig'). His son continued the coal business in the village for some years after from a yard opposite the 'Exchange'.

(above) barges loaded with timber and prepared wood awaiting transfer to 'Brown's' in Chelmsford

With the advent of the railways and the change in the prevailing wind on the East Coast, the days of sail and the Collier's slowly dwindled. There followed a period of very lean years in shipping, many of the businesses that had thrived in the village supplying all their needs including beer from the seven drinking establishments, closed. The canal company sold off much of the land it owned and moved the Lock Keeper in to the building what is now 'The Old Ship' pub. A new trade eventually moved to the Basin operated by 'Brown & Son Ltd', the importation of timber and prepared wood. Similar to the operation of the Colliers, some small ships came in through the lock and unloaded on to barges to be taken up the canal to Chelmsford, while others transferred to barges while at anchor outside in the Reach, and even bigger vessels anchored off Osea Island to be unloaded. It's worth noting that most residents of the Basin and Maldon who worked on the water, called the river area from Stansgate to Southey Creek 'The Fletch', and the area of the river seaward from Osea Island on 'Pont'.

(above) the 'Eel company's' live eels wet hold storage barge 'Gerhard' is waiting in the lock to be loaded from a ship outside in the Reach. Brown's shed and barges loaded with timber are in the background.

It was during this time that another business venture moved to the Basin .... the importation and distribution of live eels by Hans Kuijton. Hans had operations in England, Ireland, Holland and as far away as New Zealand. He built a warehouse with offices attached beside Lock Hill and brought in several floating storage barges. An interview with Hans revealed that unfortunately threats and blackmail from the IRA in Ireland resulted in Hans closing the business down. Brown's eventually stopped bringing timber to the Basin in 1972, and with the destruction of their large storage building by the great gale of 1989, all signs of them having operated in the Basin were gone.

(above) all that remains of the 'Brush Aggregates' gravel business operated from 'Herring's Point', is the blocks that the crane for loading was mounted on. 08 (below) the 'Maureen Brush' ex 'Bill Brush' a regular visitor to the Basin for aggregates.

During the 1960's a sand and gravel business was operated from the area behind the current Lockhouse. A large pit was dug for the removal of the gravel by 'Brush Aggregates Ltd', and loaded on to coasters by a crane permanently mounted on blocks at 'Herring's Point'. It should be noted here that the name 'Herrings Point' had no relevance to the fish of the same name. The residence nearby of Heybridge Hall was occupied for many years by the Reverend Herrings.

(above) 'Hartley & Brookes' boatbuilders launching a newly built fishing vessel, one of many built in their two yards by the Basin.

Several business established themselves along the side of the canal and Basin, the largest being run by Colin Brookes designing and building boats, under the name of 'Hartley & Brookes' from the two yards known as the 'Top & Bottom' yards and the office block originally built for the old 'Eel Company'. After the closing down of the two main businesses 'May & Butcher' and 'Blackwater Timbers' the village dramatically increased in size with new residential developments. Then with the moving away of the boatbuilding business of 'Hartley & Brookes' and most of the remaining small businesses during the early 90's, the village as well as the Basin and canal transformed for the first time to just a residential and leisure area, save for the activities of Stewart Tolfrey, and the two boat yards with moorings of Stebbens and Arthur Holt along the waterfront.

In conclusion .... the largest activity outside of residential use of the village is now the 'Outdoor Activities Centre' of the London Borough of Newham.